How to Create Smokey Eyes

Fashion model with smokey eyes makeup
Photographer: Larry White, Model: Anastasia Mitr, Hair and Makeup: Susie Lauri, Producer: Tawny Horton

For this ocean romance shoot, I envisioned Anastasia, my beautiful model, to have an ultra-dramatic look with penetrating eyes.

I wanted the blue in her eyes to really pop. Here are the steps I take to create alluring smokey eyes.

  1. Prep eyes with a primer. Primers are important because it helps the eyeshadow to stay longer.
  2. Use the magnetic Nudestix pencil, Immortal, over the eyelids and gently smear with your fingertip to soften the edges.
  3. Apply an orange eyeshadow in the crease and blend.

    Sitting on the beach in a wedding dress with smokey eyes
    Photographer: Rick Rowell, Model: Anastasia Mitr, Hair and Makeup: Susie Lauri, Producer: Tawny Horton
  4. Use a bronze eyeshadow over the Nudestix on the upper eyelid. This will enhance the eyeshadow.
  5. Apply a black eyeshadow in the out corner of the eyelid and crease to create more depth. I used black eyeshadow in the lash line as well.
  6. Apply medium-length eyelashes and follow with mascara. (Tip: curl the eyelashes before applying.)
  7. Use a Nudestix, Night, pencil in the lash line and blend it out with a smudge brush, creating much more depth and mystery to eyes.

    Catching a wave wearing a red dress
    Photographer: Susie Lauri, Model: Anastasia Mitr, Hair and Makeup: Susie Lauri, Producer: Tawny Horton
  8. Use Becca highlight, Opal, below the arch of her eyebrow to open up the eyes by creating contrast.

For lower eyelids

  1. For the bottom eyelid, use Huda Beauty eyeshadow, Henna, with a thicker smudge brush to cover more area across, which introduces warmth and a foundation to build on.
  2. Apply Nudestix, Night, pencil right above the Henna and on it, and blend. I love using Nudestix pencils because they are waterproof which is excellent if you have oily eyelids or watery eyes; the color stays put! Also, use the Night, Nudestix pencil, in the water line.
  3. Lastly, now that the eyes are completed, use a blush brush and go over the top eyelids so the colors flow beautifully.

The Smokey eye can be created in so many different ways. There are different gradients of color. The key is to use your blending brush throughout to create a seamless effect.

Model at the beach in a wedding dress
Photographer: Larry White, Model: Anastasia Mitr, Hair and Makeup: Susie Lauri, Producer: Tawny Horton

While I was prepping Anastasia for makeup and hair, Tawny Horton, Producer of the shoot, was cutting out the slip of her gown, creating a sexy romantic and barefoot look for the beach.

Fashion model wearing a wedding dress at the beach
Photographer: Larry White, Model: Anastasia Mitr, Hair and Makeup: Susie Lauri, Producer: Tawny Horton

This shoot was so much fun!

It was located at Aliso Beach in California. I took some video clips for you to enjoy.

Anastasia’s favorite quote is “Art is not what you see but what you make others see”—Degas. I too, am inspired by her quote. As a hair and makeup artist I’m an illusionist. I use light and depth to create different shapes, shades and contrast to bring out beauty and mystery.

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Embrace life and the world will adjust,
Susie Lauri
Follow me on Instagram: @susie_lauri_hmua

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